OIL CATCH CAN


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TIG Welded in Indiana USA - Aerospace Quaility!
9.5 tall (only 8 if you dont count the bottom bung/cap)
7 wide
5 thick (includes the -10an bungs sticking out front and bracket in back with M6x1 bolts/nut/lockwasher)


-10an bungs up front with a internal aluminum baffle that helps catch oil and prevent from getting on filters.
-6an drain bung and blue -6an cap (you can recirc back into your oil pan with custom line and open/close valve)


Then filters are 1" inlet for good breathability! If you were odd and actually filled this whole thing with oil and didnt drain it max is about 30oz fluid.


ships in 48 states fedex for $13, all other extra. Usually ship in 3 business days. Comes as pictured with the filters, clamps, hardware and blue -6an cap/plug. I have alot of materials instock so order these up until im out. If you have a specific design you would like or different mounting bracket requirement I cant probably do that if you submit a drawing with dimensions.


Click here to order and pay with Paypal $159 shipped BUY NOW
On Ebay too

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Race-Oil-Catch-Can-tank-10an-breather-for-valve-cover-Turbo-blow-by-reservoir-/140914208563
Email us if you have question or custom desire
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Helps catch oil fragments that exit the valve cover. The stock bung on the valve cover is normally baffled to prevent oil from exiting. Sometimes even if you use the stock valve cover breather hole oil fragments will exit and enter the intake or exit on your engine or ground depending on your setup. Oil drips are not looked at with pleasure from your raceway. When turbo its best to put a nipple on the intake tube between your turbo and air filter. This nipple creates some vacuum helping to suck old air out of the valve cover and crank case.

This if for race but also street applications. Its normal to weld two bungs to the valve cover. Those bungs are not baffled and catch alot of oil. If you are going this route you will want the race catchcan as its volume is larger and intended for more airflow. Has bracket welded on back for easy install. -10an fittings on top Two -10an bungs for valvecover -6an fitting on bottom for drain -6an cap for drain. Optional you will need two 3ft sections of stainless line for -10 and usually two 90 degree -10an push on fitting.. two straight -10an push on fittings. You may find it good to use two 45 degree -10an fittings in some cases.

68 Camaro oil catch can Civic oil catch can S2000 oil catch can oil catch can bungs welded on valve cover oil catch can fittings

The purpose of the stock PCV system falls under 3 categories:

1) Performance 2) Emissions standards 3) Reliability

Performance It is well known that performance gains can be had if the crankcase is under a slight source of vacuum which helps reduce crankcase windage losses. Many domestic users have seen decent gains by using either an electric or mechanical pump to help evacuate the pressure generated in the crankcase and even generate a vacuum present. Regaining lost power through the introduction of vacuum pressure evacuating the crankcase will not be as noticeable on a small displacement 4 cylinder as compared to a larger displacement 8cyl domestic. Despite this, it should still be of importance to explore the various configurations and attempt to "free-up" any power hidden in our engines which can easily be tested on a dyno.

Emissions Standards and Reliability In order to comply with US emission standards honda had to use a closed PCV system which eliminated oil vapor from escaping into the atmosphere either from the valve cover or the crankcase breather. Oil vapors being introduced into our cylinders hurts performance and increases the probability of detonation occurring. The stock PCV system allows for the introduction of oil vapors into our intake manifold which hurts performance and reliability(a stock intake manifold is usually caked with collected oil and soot over the years).

A stock PCV system is far from an optimal configuration in terms of performance and reliability. The best arrangement is to create a vacuum inside the crankcase of 14-15 inches/Hg (7psi). You do not want to create higher vacuum than 15 in/Hg because you will begin to suck oil from valve guides, piston rings, and bearings which will have dramatic consequences. Inducing a vacuum in your crankcase will lower oil pressure slightly which may be alarming but shouldn't be because the oil volume is still present. 2-5 % increase in whp is not uncommon with a properly setup vacuum drawn crankcase pulling 15in/Hg.

This Vacuum will quickly remove unburnt Air/Fuel from blow-by gasses. Blow-by contaminates engine oil, contributes to sludge buildup, and causes corrosion. Turbocharged and Supercharged cars have significant amounts of blow-by because of the pressure created inside the cylinders. Your first priority should be to attempt to create a vacuum in the crankcase to remove the blow-by or at minimum make it as easy as possible for this pressure to escape.

Evacuating the crankcase pressure can be done directly from the block or valve cover. It doesn't matter which method you prefer.

Test Engine: B18c1 /// Freshly built Engine- leak-down #s 2-3% across the board -- 9-1 CP pistons/Eagle Rods/Victor X Intake manifold/Lovefab sidewinder/ Arp Head-studs -- 3" Down-pipe/3" Moroso Spiralflow resonator/3" mandrel exhaust/open dump-tube/ Tial 40mm waste-gate -- Freshly Built Head/ Supertech valves/ Titanium retainers/Dual Valve springs -- Fresh Garrett 4 bolt t3/t4 turbo// 0.60 AR Compressor/ 0.63 Turbine housing -- Custom 2.5" intercooler pipe/ Custom Spearco 3.5"X12"X20" intercooler -- Tuned with Hondata

Test Equipment: Calibrated Dewyer Magnehelic Pressure Gauge 0-5 psi range // Accuracy +-2% ///

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Open Breather Ventilation -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This method is adequate for ventilating crankcase gasses in turbocharged/supercharged cars because the extra blow-by will force its way through any filter quite easily. You want to make sure you provide as many sources as possible to allow the pressure to escape with ease. For H, F, and D series engines you can use the stock PCV line(excluding the PCV valve), Breather Line, and tap an extra 1-2 ports in the valve cover if wanted. You can attach a filter directly to the line or connect them to 1or2 catchcans with a breather filter on top. You want to place the catchcan in the highest possible location you can locate in your engine bay. This will allow the catchcan to collect blow-by gasses without consuming excessive oil and allow a drainback line to easily flow oil/gas mixture back into the engine(if you choose to use this feature). The sole purpose of a catchcan in an open breather system is to "trap" oil and blow-by gasses so they do not contaminate your engine bay and the environment. The surface area in the lines and the catchcan facilitate this. Increasing the surface area by using steel wool or other means will certainly help capturing these gasses but will also restrict them from escaping. The best compromise is to use a baffled catchcan such as one Moroso manufactures.

On B series engines it is preferable to ventilate the crankcase gases through 2 ports located on the back of the block. This arrangement can be accomplished by removing the PCV chamber behind the Intake manifold bracket and sealing the stock Crankcase ventilation hole. If you are running the stock Intake manifold you will want to also plug the PCV port on the Intake Manifold as well.

The Crankcase ventilation hole can be sealed with one of these 3 methods: 1) Aluminum Freeze Plug (34.4mm-34.6mm) 2) Aluminum circular plate epoxied with Devcon Liquid Aluminum http://www.devcon.com/devconfa...id=34 3) http://www.z10eng.com/ makes a plug.

It is important that you seal this opening with an Aluminum plug and not a rubber one! Remove the ports with a 14mm Allen(Snap-on) and install these 2 washers and ports as shown below(Honda part numbers shown):

Use reinforced high temp hose 5/8" ID. Their will be a port on the top of your block which normally connects a line to your PVC chamber. You can either seal this or T it off one of your ventilation lines. The last thing to do is place a small filter on your breather port located on your valve cover.

I ran this above setup for approximately 1 year with no problems. My car was daily driven hard boosting 17-18 psi. I tested this setup using the following configurations: 1) Drain-back feature to the one of the original lines 2) Back to the oil pan 3) Without the drainback feature. When I removed the drainback feature I would fill the catchcan half full every 2-3 weeks. The evacuation lines would dis-color but never suck oil even when I used the stock Honda fittings without an anti-siphon tube. The contents of fluid collected inside the catchcan was mostly unburnt fuel and contaminants with very little oil. If you are experiencing excessive oil consumption in the catchcan I suggest you place your catchcan higher or do a leak-down test. I suggest manually draining the catchcan instead of using the drainback feature to eliminate gasoline and contaminants from re-introducing themselves to your oil. Bottom Line Cost: 20-150 dollars(dependent upon open filter lines or use of catchcan) Performance: Good(as long as their is enough ventilation) Reliability: Good. Environment: Horrible(no catchcan)- poor(Catchcan)

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Intake Manifold Vacuum Assisted Ventilation ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In Turbocharged vehicles the Intake manifold sees both vacuum and boost pressure unlike in naturally aspirated cars. The PCV valve acts as a check valve blocking any pressure in the rare occasion their is backfire in the Intake Manifold. I have heard that some individuals placing a check valve in-line and allowing the Intake manifold to assist in ventilating the crankcase. The check valve insures that boost pressure doesn't enter into the crankcase through this line. Ideally one would want to induce a gradual amount of vacuum up to 15 in/hg under full load. Connecting the evacuation line to the intake manifold would do the exact opposite of this. On a boosted vehicle the Intake Manifold will read 25in/hg at idle and 20-15in/Hg in low load conditions and quickly disappear when any moderate to high load conditions appear. In a stock vehicle this is acceptable because the PCV valve meters the vacuum as shown: Idle, Low load--- high vacuum pressures fully retract the pintle causing only a small vacuum draw on the crankcase. Mild load conditions--- vacuum present in the intake manifold is not as strong so the pintle sits in the middle of the pcv valve allowing more vacuum to evacuate the crankcase. High load + WOT conditions--- their is almost no vacuum present and the pintle is almost completely extended allowing the most amount of gasses to be drawn into the intake manifold. Engine backfire--- the pintle fully extends and seals to eliminate any gasses from flowing from the intake manifold to the crankcase. Not only are you pulling excessive vacuum at low load conditions you are contaminating the Intake charge with oil and unburnt fuel blow-by. I cannot recommend this setup to anyone.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Intake slashcut evacuation -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Using a slashcut tube to create vacuum is an old trick which works on the Bernoulli effect as air rushes past the tube at high velocities. Make sure you place the slash-cut opening in the opposite direction of the airflow. One method for evacuating the crankcase is to allow the Intake(pre-turbo) to draw out these gasses. In my tests their was a linear load dependent vacuum drawn using this method. None to insignificant amount of vacuum drawn at idle and low load conditions, moderate load created 0.25 psi(0.5") of vacuum, and high load/WOT created a maximum vacuum of 0.5 psi (1") vacuum. One does not need to use a check valve with this approach as their is never any reason for pressure to force its way into the crankcase. Their is a positive and negative aspect to this approach. The great thing about this method is that it is the only method which allows one to completely eliminate any blow-by gasses from contaminating the environment. The downside is that it contaminates the Intake charge with oil/fuel/contaminants. Judging from the amount of contaminants I collected in my open breather catchcan every 2-3 weeks it would be absolutely insane to use this method without a sealed(no open breather element) and baffled catchcan in-line between the crankcase /valve cover and the intake. Keep in mind that most of the contaminants will be sucked into the intake as opposed to only some contaminants trapped in an open breather catchcan while the rest pollutes the environment. Some good news is that the Intercooler piping and intercooler will act as a very large catchcan and trap most of these contaminants before they reach the engine. The bad news is that I suggest you periodically clean the inside of your intercooler and intercooler pipe. Bottom Line Cost: 20-150 dollars(dependent use of catchcan and welding) Performance: Good(as long as the compressor housing/Intercooler are cleaned periodically and a catchcan is used) Reliability: Good. Environment: Excellent(provided that you use no other open breather elements)

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mechanical Vacuum -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The only people right now that make this for Hondas is: http://www.z10eng.com/. The great news is that this is the best setup from a performance/reliability perspective bar-none. The bad news is that it is extremely expensive and you have to run their complete oil pump setup thus loosing your AC compressor. My conversation with one of the owners a while ago led me to believe these guys are extremely knowledgeable and will customize your complete setup specifically to your needs. You can choose between a dry sump, wet sump oil system, or even add on a mechanical fuel pump. The vacuum generator can be manually adjusted for desired amount. Expect to free up more whp then the standard 2-5% because this setup goes way beyond simply inducing vacuum in the crankcase. Bottom Line Cost: Variable. Expect around 2 grand. Performance: Excellent. Reliability: Excellent. Environment: Poor.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Electric Vacuum pump -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have studied and tested the idea of using old electric brake booster vacuum pumps which were made for old GM vehicles to induce vacuum in the crankcase. Using an off the shelf electric vacuum pump to draw a specific amount of vacuum is tangled with complex problems. These pumps run 16in/hg of vacuum at 13.7 volts and 19in/hg at 16 volts. Remember you don't want to draw more than 14-15" of vacuum and it is preferable that the vacuum is gradually increased in a linear fashion with load which these will not do without some tricky electronics. I have studied both mechanical and electronic approaches to solving these dilemmas to no satisfaction. After all the problems I had wrestling electrical gremlins in an electric water pump I simply don't trust my engine on this device. Another cause of concern I have is when my alternator failed while I was driving I recorded very unusual voltage numbers jumping from 10-16.8 volts in odd patterns which could case problems for an electric vacuum pump. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Exhaust slashcut evacuation ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is based upon the same Bernoulli effect mentioned before but uses exhaust gasses to draw out crankcase gasses instead. Their are 2 ways of doing this: 1) Weld a slashcut tube in your waste-gate dump-tube 2) Weld a slashcut tube in your exhaust In the first test I connected my Dewyer Magnehelic Pressure Gauge to the slashcut in my wastgate to measure the vacuum draw. As expected I only saw maximum vacuum drawn when the wastgate was open after reaching my maximum boost pressure set on my boost controller. The amount of vacuum went up from 0.25psi(0.5") to 0.4(0.8") vacuum. The numbers shown here were very similar to those shown with the Intake slashcut with the exception of being present when the wastgate started to open. I chose to connect my valve cover breather and top port (oem- not modified plugs) on my block to the waste-gate slashcut tube. Check valves aren't really needed here but you can use one if it make you feel better. For my second test I welding in a slashcut tube in my downpipe(12" from turbo). At first I had problems melting my high temp tubing with the heat from the downpipe and exhaust so I soldered together some copper pipe to solve this problem. I placed a check valve in-line on the top 6 inches of hose and wrapped it in reflective heat wrap as you can see. At Idle the Dewyer Magnehelic Pressure Gauge showed 0.1-0.2psi of vacuum. Driving around town was more unpredictable. The gauge would oscillate between positive pressure(when i tested without the check valve) to 0.5 psi (1") to 1.1 psi ((2.2"). It rarely displayed positive pressure but I could find no simple pattern either rpm or load dependent. Typically it would bounce around 0.6psi to 1psi. Here is a picture of the hose connected to the valve cover port without being tested. You definitely want to run a one way check valve in-line here. I purchased the check valve for 1 dollar at a local junkyard. You can find the check valve in-line on the brake booster line on any honda. Another source for a check valves and slashcut tubes(In case you don't feel like cutting your own is Moroso: Bottom Line Cost: 20-80 dollars (dependent upon if you have it welded or not) Performance: Great. Reliability: Great. Environment: Poor.

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1199935



Round 1: Streets of Long Beach Tickets On-Sale, Thur. Feb. 26

Long Beach, Calif. � February 24, 2009 � Formula DRIFT prepares to begin the sixth professional championship season. Reserved tickets will be available online starting Thursday, February 26 for Round 1: Streets of Long Beach on April 10 and 11. The season opener will feature the world debut of new drift cars, new and returning drivers, and lots more.

�Formula DRIFT is excited to enter its sixth season of competition and we have a lot of new things in store for the fans,� said Jim Liaw, co-founder and president of Formula DRIFT. �We are proud to present the world debut of new competition vehicles at Long Beach including the 2010 Ford Mustang driven by Vaughn Gittin, Jr., the 2010 Dodge Challenger driven by 2-time Formula DRIFT champion, Samuel Hubinette, and the 2010 Hyundai Genesis Coupe driven by World Champion and Formula DRIFT champion, Rhys Millen. In these tough economic times it is great to see that auto manufacturers have chosen Formula DRIFT as one of their main motorsports platforms.�

Round 1: Streets of Long Beach tickets will be available beginning February 26 via the Formula DRIFT website at www.formuladrift.com. Ticket prices start at $28 online with reserved tickets available for Saturday's competition day. Friday, April 10th has been opened to the public as a �Preview Day,� and will feature practice and qualifying at a minimal cost with purchase of a Saturday �Main Event� ticket. Grandstands 16 and 18 have been expanded this season to give more fans the best view of the action.

Round 1: Streets of Long Beach April 10-11 Ticket Pricing

Online / Pre-Sale
Saturday, April 11- Reserved Seating - $28.00
Saturday, April 11 - Reserved Seating + Friday, April 10 - GA - $32.00

�Even in this tough economy we have managed to keep ticket prices low, while still expanding to a two day format,� said Ryan Sage, co-founder and vice president of marketing for Formula DRIFT. �Reserved tickets allow our fans to never lose their seat so they can walk around at leisure and enjoy what has become one of the most anticipated events of the year in and around Southern California.�

The action begins on April 10th in Long Beach, California and will be held on a section of the famous Toyota Grand Prix of Long Beach street course. New cars and drivers will be entering the Series and will make for another exciting season. The addition of Top 32 tandem battle will be sure to challenge the drivers and add to the action. Current back-to-back Formula DRIFT Champion, Tanner Foust and World Champion Rhys Millen make their return on different vehicle platforms and will battle against the best drifters for the Formula DRIFT championship.

2009
Round 2 | PROVING GROUND - Road Atlanta � Braselton, GA | May 8th - 9th
Round 3 | THE GAUNTLET - New Jersey | June 5th - 6th
Round 4 | ALL IN - Las Vegas Motor Speedway � Las Vegas, NV | July 10th - 11th
Round 5 | BREAKING POINT | Evergreen Speedway � Monroe, WA | August 7th -8th
Round 6 | LOCKED AND LOADED | Infineon Raceway � Sonoma, CA | September 12th
Round 7 | JUDGEMENT DAY | Toyota Speedway at Irwindale � Irwindale, CA | October 16th - 17th

For more Formula Drift information, tickets or competition registration please visit www.formulad.com.






LOS ANGELES (February 10, 2009) � D1GP USA (www.d1gp.com), the auto industry�s premier drifting series, today announced its tickets are now on sale online on the D1GP USA website. D1GP USA decided to open its ticket sales early due to popular demand and interest from drift fans. Ticket prices will start at $30, and will vary to provide multiple options for track goers.

In addition to ticket sales, D1GP USA also opened competition registration for all events

2009 D1 Grand Prix USA Schedule
� Anaheim Stadium, Anaheim, California - May 2nd
� Dolphins Stadium, Miami, Florida - May 30th
� The Spectrum, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania - July 18th
� Soldier Field, Chicago, Illinois - August 1st


Ticket Prices
General Admission
$30.00


VIP (Includes covered trackside viewing, VIP lounge access, private bars & facilities)
$45
Competition Registration
Pre & Pro Qualifying Rounds
$100
Championship Points Series Rounds
$250


For tickets or competition registration, visit www.d1gp.com.


For more information on the D1GP USA, please visit www.d1gp.com. For media inquiries please contact Terry Miller, terry@drivenmc.com

















































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